Discovering the less-touristy side of Ilocos Norte

A few things have changed since I first visited Ilocos Norte six years ago: There is now a huge “Paoay” sign made of bricks in front of San Augustine aka Paoay Church, more buildings and roads are being built and cemented for the convenience of tourists, and the mausoleum that used to house the body of former President Ferdinand Marcos is now empty.

With all the infrastructure developments and the push to be more tourist-friendly, it was a relief that the food that the Ilocos region made famous still tastes as wonderful as they did back in 2011.

This June 2017 trip was a tad different to the one I made with my then-girlfriend and now wife more than half a decade ago. I went back to Surgui, Paoay to pay my respects to a member of my wife’s family.

For the uninitiated, Paoay is 20 kilometers away south from Laoag International Airport by car and is surrounded by Batac from the east and Currimao from its southern part. The Paoay Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is easily the most famous attraction along with Paoay Lake National Park, and the Paoay (La Paz) Sand Dunes.

San Augustine or Paoay Church’s famous facade is best photographed in the afternoon when the sun is setting. Photos: Stanley See

Ilocos staples specialities

A death in the family means that the wake is held at the house for nine nights, meaning this trip was more for business than for pleasure. Lunch and dinner meant feasting on Ilokano staples like Igado, Adobong Siling Iloko, Pinakbet, and even Crispy Diniguan. I admit that I was hesitant to try these dishes six years ago, but having a more open mind and more mature taste buds allowed me to savor each bite from these home-cooked meals this time.

However limited our free time would be, we still managed to take a few trips to Batac, some four-five kilometers away by jeep, and munch on freshly-prepared and fried Double Special Empanadas (two longganisas, two eggs, and vegetables for P50) from Glory’s or Glomy’s in Batac Riverside Empanadaan. Each bite should be accompanied a splash or two of sukang Iloko to complete the taste.

Whether you order the plain (vegetables only), ordinary (with longganisa), or special (with longganisa and egg), dab a little local vinegar known as sukang Iloko to cut the richness.

Getting around Ilocos Norte is possible via Laoag-Batac-Paoay jeepneys or tricycles. But prepare to wait for the jeepney to be at least half-full or pay a special rates for tricycle rides.

Having a friend or better, a relative, drive you in and around the Ilocos region makes traveling more convenient and accessible.

A favorite parter or post-empanada snack is the humble Miki, eggs noodles with achuete-infused broth and whole egg, topped with chicharon or pork rinds.

I was already amazed and satisfied with the stalls located across the Riverside Empanadaan when my wife’s cousin insisted we try Pik-A-Bun on Ablan Street instead. This version, only P35, had a thicker and richer broth than the usual.

A simple bowl of miki is available in stalls across the Batac Riverside Empanadaan or at Pik-a-Bun

Paoay’s southern neighbor, Currimao

On my last day in Ilocos Norte, the same cousin and her husband invited us to their home in Currimao, five kilometers from Paoay and facing the West Philippine sea. Catching rays of the early morning not only meant great photographs but less painful sunburns as well. A simple early lunch of rice, fried egg, Ilocos longganisa with sukang Iloko quieted hungry, empty stomachs at six in the morning.

Local fishermen, some of whom went far into the sea starting at 3 a.m., were now returning back to shore to offer their fresh catch. Without even digesting the breakfast meal we had a few minutes before, my companions were already busy at the grill, cooking fresh fish and squid, chucking steamed local oysters, and starting happy hour a few hours early by passing around light pale beer.

Currimao’s beach, in my opinion, is way better and finer than the more famous Pagudpud shoreline up north. Should you find the need to explore Currimao more, there’s the nearby Playa Tropical Resort, Pangil Coral Reef Formations (for selfies), and Pangil Beach Resort.

Pangil Coral Reef Formations is one of Currimao's natural attractions

Prepare sufficient luggage space for Ilocos pasalubong such as chichacorn (P35/150g), a kilo or two of Bagnet or Ilocos longganisa, and even bottles of the magic elixir, sukang Iloko.

The beach and the sea, together with grilled food, beer, and good conversations made me realize what I missed then, and even now as an urbanite. The cool breeze, slow pace of province life, great food, and a big, extended family should really be what life is all about; everything else is optional. — LA, GMA News