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Wandering through Mongkok after Typhoon Haima
Tsim Sha Tsui, HONG KONG - Earlier this month, Typhoon Haima (Philippine name: Lawin) virtually halted this bustling Special Administrative Region (SAR). From schools to government offices to more than 600 flights, Hong Kong stood at a standstill while waiting for this Signal No. 8 typhoon to leave its area of responsibility.
As luck would have it, my Hong Kong trip coincided with Haima's exiting Hong Kong on October 21. My morning flight was cancelled, but after I was rebooked on the early evening flight, I got a chance to see the aftermath of one of the worst storms to hit Hong Kong. Streets were uncharacteristically littered with trash; and while the sidewalks were still wet, thankfully, the rains had stopped.
It seemed like everybody in Hong Kong wanted to get back to normal the day after the storm, a Saturday. Major tourist areas like Tsim Sha Tsui, Causeway Bay, and Mongkok were packed with both locals and foreign visitors—and so were the MTR trains and stations. Accompanied by my Canada-based aunt for the duration of the trip, we made our way to Mongkok during the afternoon for some retail therapy and a good meal.
Tung Choi and Fa Yuen Streets
More known for by their nicknames, Ladies’ Market (Tung Choi Street) and Sneaker Lane (Fa Yuen Street) are parallel roads that cater to the shopper in you. From the Mongkok MTR Station, exit at either B3 (Fife Street) or D2 (the perpendicular Argyle Street) to access either street. After passing by Sai Yeung Choi Street, Tung Choi Street—with its meters-high sidewalk displays—is a sure sign that you are already in the Ladies’ Market.
Aside from cheap knock-offs and factory overruns, the Ladies’ Market is also a good place to shop for affordable souvenirs like t-shirts, keychains, and magnets. Even with the potential language barrier and use of broken English by the vendors, bargaining and price negotiation is a must. Through the magic of calculators, tourists can haggle on the price of whatever item their hearts desire.
Sneaker Lane, meanwhile, reflects not only Hong Kong’s culture but also the global culture and appetite for shoes and sneakers. The entire stretch of Fa Yuen Street is lined with shops offering the latest basketball shoes, casual footwear, and even hard-to-find, limited-edition colorways. Brands like sporting giants Nike and adidas have several stand-alone stores, while other vendors feature items from Reebok, Converse, New Balance, Saucony, Japanese brand Asics, and even Crocs.
Original flavor is still the best
After an hour or so window-shopping through Ladies’ Market and Sneaker Lane, our stomachs naturally called our attention. We were actually at nearby Portland Street when we saw a giant billboard for Paradise Dynasty and its famed eight-flavor Xiao Long Bao.
Paradise Dynasty is located on the second floor of Grand Plaza (entrance is along Nathan Road). Arriving for early dinner at 6 p.m. turned out to be the perfect time to go as there were plenty of empty tables.
Diners are given a double-sided sheet of paper that serves as both menu and order ticket. At the top of the list are their original and Dynasty Signature eight-flavors Xiao Long Bao. You can get the original in orders of six (HK$56) or 10 pieces (HK$88), while the flavored ones range in price from HK$65 for 6 pieces and HK$98 for 10 (for the Cheese, Szechuan, and Garlic flavors) to HK$98 for 6 pieces and HK$148 for 10 pieces for the Black Truffle and Foie Gras flavors.
It turns out the choosing the combination eight-flavor variety (KH$98) requires eating each piece in a certain order. A strip of paper instructs diners to start with the original variety in the center of the dish, then proceed to the Green Ginseng at 4 o'clock, then go clockwise from the Light Brown Foie Gras all the way around to the Pinkish-Red Szechuan.
A simple, five-step guide can also be found at the back of the “How to enjoy the Signature Dynasty Xiao Long Bao” guide. Sharing the signature set with my aunt meant that I wasn’t able to taste all eight flavors; I was able to taste Ginseng, Black Truffle, Garlic and Szechuan (slightly spicy), and realized that the neutral flavors of the original is still the best. Make a little dipping sauce with strips of ginger and the black vinegar and you are already set.
Other noteworthy items on the menu include Yang Zhou Fried Rice, a variety of La Mian or hand-stretched noodle dishes, and Durian Xiao Long Bao for dessert. The boiled peanuts they serve upon seating cost HK$15 by the way, while the bottomless pot of hot tea is a HK$14 charge on the bill. — BM, GMA News
Paradise Dynasty is located at Shop 203 2/F Grand Plaza, 625 Nathan Road, Mongkok, Hong Kong.
