Manila to say bonjour to Michelin-awarded Chef Nicolas Isnard in November

There are only a handful of restaurants that have been recognized by certain culinary standards—one of the most prestigious being the Michelin Guide, which has been around since the 1900s. Garnering recognition from this group of gastronomy gods would be the ultimate dream of any chef or restaurateur.

Though the Philippines hasn't produced any restaurant or chef with that award as of yet, we are fortunate enough to have a chance to meet Michelin-awarded Chef Nicolas Isnard, who will be visiting from France.

“I’m born in the south of France but my grandfather and grandmother are Italian,” shared the chef, who is in his mid-30s.

The recipe for success

But the journey to becoming an award-winning chef was not a walk in the park, as he had to pursue formal culinary training in France and work his way as an apprentice from one restaurant to another.

All his hard work was not for naught, though. At the age of 22, he became the Chef de Partie for Relais & Chateau at its one-star Michelin restaurant called Le Prieure.

A year after, he became the second chef at another one-star Michelin restaurant, Le Vieux Logis. The next year, he joined the two-star restaurant, La Rotonde, where he played the part of Chef de Partie for the 25-member team of Philippe Gauvreau.

Eventually, he transferred to Auberge du Vieux Puits, a three-star establishment where he was made the Head Chef. Here, he also met his future wife Cécile, and business partner, David le Comte. Before opening their own restaurant, the chef was able to experience working in Le Chateau de Curzay, the owner of which also opened an Italian restaurant in Switzerland and sometimes assigned him there. While alternating between the two kitchens, and Isnard led the Italian restaurant to its first Michelin star.

He eventually opened his own establishment, Auberge de la Charme á Prenois—which specializes in French cuisine prepared with modern techniques—with partners Cécile Sagory, David le Comte, and Jessica Jean. They received one Michelin star within a year’s time.

Isnard said he will never forget the day he got the call about the award. While in the car with one of the partners, they had to stop at the roadside as they heard the news and cried joyful tears.

Since then, he has traveled around the globe as a culinary consultant to cities such as Beijing, Singapore, Dubai, Moscow, Abu Dhabi, Jakarta, Ho Chi Minh, Casablanca, and Macau.

Little product, high cuisine

Isnard loves cooking with all kinds of vegetables, from artichokes to zucchini. Each day, he goes to the market and chooses his own produce and buys direct from reputable suppliers.

He believes that chefs are made and not born. “I think we need to be open-minded, [have] adaptability, curiosity, passion [for] food, passion [for] products, patience, and confidence. You need to know who you are.”

In 2010, the chef and his partner David le Comte wrote a book featuring 30 original egg recipes. It was simply called “L’œuf,” the French term for egg.

Isnard said of it, “I just want to show that with a little product, it could be high cuisine.”

Bonjour: French fine dining in Manila

Filipinos will finally be able sample authentic French cuisine, as Isnard will be visiting the Philippines for the first time in November. He will be the guest chef at The Tivoli in Mandarin Oriental, Manila from November 18 to 24.

As local gourmands anticipate his arrival, the chef is looking forward to “eat Philippine food.”

Soon, foodies would get a chance to taste the chef’s specialties such as soupe à l’oignon contemporaine, sea bream ceviche, saffron and egg bouillabaisse, baba au rhum fac?on pina colada, and gingerbread and raspberry tiramisu. Diners may opt to order his dishes a la carte, as a business lunch set, or a degustation menu.

Isnard will also hold an intimate cooking class on November 23, open to all food lovers out there. — VC, GMA News


The Tivoli is located at the Mandarin Oriental Manila, Makati Avenue, Makati City; +632 750-8888; email MOMNL-tivoli@mohg.com; open for lunch and dinner on Monday to Saturday.