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Restaurant review: Different degrees of spice at Just Thai


My fondest memory of sampling true Thai food was in the streets of Bangkok where I had my first taste of authentic pad Thai. I didn’t speak the local dialect so I just communicated with the vendor through sign language, and I ended up eating the spiciest stir-fried noodles I have ever tasted — so hot that my eyes teared up at my first bite.
 
As much as I would want to replicate that food experience, I find it challenging to do so as there aren’t a lot of good Thai restaurants here in Metro Manila. I encountered one that closely resembles the real thing although it has been around for four years already. 
 
Just Thai may not be new in the restaurant scene but I was only able to eat there recently after I overcame my feeling of intimidation. You see, I associate Thai food with street food, not with swanky dining destinations. When I finally had the opportunity to dine there, I realized that I was wrong not to try it earlier. But, like they say, it’s better late than never.
 
Filipino spicy or Thai spicy?
 
I felt a comfortable vibe upon entering the establishment. Just Thai was a cozy restaurant that was neither too casual nor too upscale. The wooden furnishing and muted red tones of the interiors made me feel relaxed. I immediately checked out the menu that listed a variety of Thai offerings and I was grateful for the English translations with matching dish descriptions.
 
Of course, I wanted to sample one of Thailand’s most iconic dishes, tom yum, a hot and sour soup with prawns. But before our server placed our order, he asked how spicy we wanted it. I discovered that the restaurant could customize the spice levels of all the dishes. Typically, Filipinos go for mildly spicy only but my lunch mates and I went for the truly hot and spicy. Indeed, it was so. 
 
With every spoonful, I tasted the combination of complex flavors — sour, spicy, and the strong taste of cilantro. It was actually like any other tom yum I tasted. 
 
If you want something different, I would highly recommend the tom kha gai, which is chicken soup in coconut broth. It was creamy and flavorful as well. There were bits of poultry, straw mushrooms, lemongrass and ginger — though the last two ingredients were basically there for flavor. I tried chewing on the little bits of lemongrass but it was so fibrous and tough. You’re better off putting them aside and simply savoring the soup.
 
Another must-try appetizer is the yam neua or beef salad, which I thought seemed like an oxymoron since beef and salad are worlds apart — at least in my own little world. When I think of salad, I usually imagine a bed of greens with an optional lean meat component.
 
But this particular salad featured red meat and the usual salad vegetables like lettuce, onions, tomatoes, cucumber, and cilantro, which came with some fish sauce on the side. The combination of ingredients was visually appealing because of its vibrant colors. I made sure to get a little of each in one bite and actually liked it because the marinated beef strips were so tasty. I didn’t even bother adding condiments on it since my palate was already happy.
 
Our Thai feast continued with main courses like the popular pad Thai (stir-fried rice noodles with bean sprouts, egg, shrimp, peanuts and chili) and khao krok kapi (bagoong rice). I ate the noodles with high expectations and it was alright. It wasn’t like the one I tasted in Bangkok, but was close enough. On the other hand, I enjoyed the savory bagoong rice that featured a contrast of flavors — sweet pork, salty shrimp paste, and tangy green mangoes. 

 
Kung kratiem (prawns in garlic and pepper)
 
Discerning diners would also take pleasure in dishes like kung kratiem (prawns in garlic and pepper) and bplah pla muek kratiem (squid with garlic and pepper), both of which have similar flavors and are light on the stomach. The plate of prawns was the most expensive item on the menu. Although scrumptious, you’d be better off with the squid or the pad gaprow talay (mixed seafood in basil), if you are on a budget. The servings are good for two though — or three — depending on your appetite. 
 
I thought that the mixed seafood dish was delicious because it was cooked in coconut milk, which added some richness to it. I got some shrimp and mussels on my plate and ate them with the fried basil. It was an exciting dish for me because there was a hint of spice in every bite.
 
Just Thai also offers vegetarian-friendly dishes like the gaeng leuang (vegetables in yellow curry). It had a healthy serving of tofu, broccoli, eggplant, bell pepper, and string beans. The dish was so-so but I ate it anyway for its nutritional benefits.
 
To soothe my burning tongue, I sipped on some tamarind juice, a refreshing yet sour beverage that actually agreed with my taste buds. It was like drinking the liquid version of sampaloc candy. There is also the traditional Thai iced tea that is yummy as well.

 
Tha kho (coconut pudding)
 
Even though I was pretty full, I just had to end my meal with something sweet. The khao niaow ma muang was a popular choice. It was, in fact, the prettiest sticky rice with mango I have ever seen! The yellow fruit was thinly sliced and shaped like a rose in bloom. It lay on top of the sticky rice that was coated with crunchy sesame seeds. The dessert plate was served with warm coconut cream. I only got my share when someone went in on it first because I didn’t have the heart to destroy the perfectly plated dessert.
 
My preferred sweet ending though was the tha kho, a plain looking coconut pudding wrapped in pandan leaves. It’s the Thai version of maja mais, which also has sweet corn kernels. One order has five servings and I could actually imagine myself finishing the whole platter. Maybe I’ll do that on my next visit — when no one is watching. — JST, GMA News
 
Just Thai is located at Forbestown, Burgos Circle, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig; tel: +63 (2) 403-8718, and Molito Lifestyle Center, Alabang; tel: +63 (2) 808-4058. Email thai.fort@gmail.com.
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