At Liyab, a fiery passion for Filipino cuisine comes alive

There is something deeply comforting about Filipino cuisine.

For locals in the Philippines, gathering around a table filled with home-cooked local dishes is synonymous with comfort. For our kababayans living abroad, a Filipino spread brings an immediate sense of home.

With the arrival of the Michelin Guide and it recognizing the Philippines as among 2026's most exciting foodie destinations in the world, the already-robust Philippine dining scene is expected to rise on the global stage and with it, a new generation of chefs redefining what Filipino cuisine can look like, taste like, and mean in the modern world.

One to watch is Charles Montanez, a 30-something culinary artist who previously worked in the kitchens of Mövenpick Hotel in Cebu and several restaurants in Singapore. The founding chef of Alegria, which he left in 2023, Charles returns to the spotlight with two new dining concepts in tow.

Among them is Liyab, which he opened in December 2025.

Located on the rooftop of the W High Street building in Bonifacio Global City, Liyab is a 28-seater that serves reimagined Filipino dishes with a thoughtful and very impressive a tasting menu.

The ambiance is intimate, with warm, cozy lighting and tables that offer a clear view of the open kitchen. Think of the fictional Hawthorn restaurant in the film “The Menu,” minus the disturbing theatrics.

The chair and table setting, with muted colors and minimalist aesthetic, are designed for modern diners. There is even a phone stand and a selfie light available for guests to use freely and ensure phones eat first. 

The inaugural nine-course tasting menu puts Filipino ingredients at the forefront, weaving in the essence of “liyab,” or flame, through grilling, smoking, roasting, and stewing, all done in full view of diners.

Dinner begins with the menu for each guest literally catching fire before revealing the printed names of each dish, all personally inspired by Charles’ fondest childhood food memories of cooking Filipino dishes with his mother.

Much of the preparation is visible from the open kitchen, while finishing touches and subtle theatrics unfold tableside — a touch uniquely part of Liyab’s charm.

The meal opens with a bulalo-inspired bone broth featuring corn custard, a layer of 15-month beef garum (fermented beef), and wood-fired lengua. The result is a rich, clear soup reminiscent of the classic bulalo, layered with both sweet and savory notes.

Next comes sea urchin from Sagay City, Negros Occidental, laid over Visayan white corn called tinigib. Accented with Kampot pepper, and crowned with local F1 Wagyu sirloin, the result is like a Pepper Lunch beef rice meal but elevated, with chewy tinigib in lieu of rice and succulent Wagyu slices as your protein.

The third dish pays homage to Filipino ihaw-ihaw culture. Botan ebi, or large shrimp, is grilled tableside as a mini abaca fan intensifies the charcoal flame. It is a hot-and-cold experience, with steaming prawn tea poured over house-made blue cheese ice cream with the botan ebi on top, creating contrasting flavors and temperatures that harmonize into a sweet-and-savory seafood dish.

Another ode to Filipino street food follows: Each guest gets one of each pork pancetta and Wagyu short loin skewered on barbecue sticks, with the pancetta crisped on the edges but tender on the inside while the Wagyu melts in your mouth; taba ng talangka stuffed inside an airy squid ball delivers a briny and umami-packed burst of flavor; and crispy tawilis topped with Hamachi prosciutto offers a satisfying crunch.

The main courses are presented salo-salo style. The spread includes beef longganisa with spiced vinegar, local sea bass, and pork adobo topped with crispy chicken skin. These are served with black and red rice, wood-fired talbos ng kamote, and condiments such as pickled cucumber, santol sa gata, and burong hipon. The mains are designed for you to eat however you please, in whatever way is familiar to your palate and brings you closer to home.

For dessert, pastry chef Hanna Quitatchon offers a playful reimagining of Filipino street food, iskrambol, to begin the sweet finale. It is made with marshmallow, strawberry, pili nuts, toasted milk, brownies, and Pop Rocks. A petit four selection of house-made polvoron, caramel cubes, gummy bears, and a lollipop caps the meal.

Aside from Liyab, Charles also opened Mamacita in 2025, a Mexican restaurant-bar now listed among the Michelin Selected establishments for 2026.

The inaugural tasting menu is priced at P7,000 and is the only available menu at Liyab as of writing. Future changes in the dishes offered and the availability of à la carte dishes have yet to be revealed.

Reservations may be booked online via OpenTable.

Liyab is located at W High Street Bldg. 28th St. Corner 11th Ave. BGC, Taguig City. It’s open from Tuesdays to Sundays, with two seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. — LA, GMA Integrated News