Spaghetti sinigang and mango-based kilaw? This Makati restaurant gives lola's recipes a modern makeover

For the Makati restaurant Po & Pilar, tradition and creativity go hand in hand, resulting in dishes that feel both comforting and unexpected.

Tucked on Salcedo Street in Legazpi Village, Po & Pilar takes the dishes many Filipinos grew up with and gives them an unexpected spin, all without losing the warmth and familiarity that make them comforting in the first place.

Named after the grandmothers of co-founder Jericson Co, Po & Pilar isn't about recreating heirloom recipes exactly as they were. Instead, it imagines where those recipes could go while staying rooted in memory.

That philosophy becomes clear even before the first course arrives.

Diners are welcomed with a comforting cup of warm chicken soup, a thoughtful gesture meant to prepare the stomach for the meal ahead.

Walking through the restaurant's large maroon door also feels fittingly homey, with interiors that evoke the feeling of visiting a grandmother's house: calm, cozy, and inviting.

One of the restaurant's newest dishes, the Spaghetti Sinigang "Assassina" (starts at P525), is perhaps its boldest conversation starter.

Made with spaghetti cooked in a taro-based sinigang broth with tomatoes and served alongside crispy kangkong, the dish sounds unconventional on paper. But one bite proves otherwise.

The pasta remains perfectly al dente while carrying the unmistakable sour, comforting flavors of sinigang.

Another standout is the Kilaw and Sisig (P750), where General Santos tuna is cured and dressed not with the usual vinegar but with pureed green mango.

The fruit lends a bright tanginess that feels lighter and more balanced, avoiding the sharp acidity that can sometimes become overpowering after a few bites.

Paired with crunchy pork face cracklings for richness and texture, it's a clever reinterpretation of kilaw that still captures the refreshing quality the dish is known for.

The Beef and Lengua (starts at P950) combines tender beef rib and tongue with citrus, charred scallion salsa verde, and crunchy accompaniments, while the Mackerel Terrine "Bocuse d'Or" (P825) gives escabeche a French-inspired twist with potatoes, sauce gribiche, and marinated raisins.

The beverage menu offers equally creative pairings.

Among the low-alcohol selections, the Mango Bubbly (P380) combines mango shrub, prosecco, and Angostura bitters for a refreshing, lightly sparkling drink, while the Bicicleta (P380) blends white wine with Campari for a pleasantly bittersweet sip.

For those skipping alcohol, the Pineapple Pandan Tea (P380) mixes green tea, pandan tea, pineapple, lemon, and agave into a tropical refresher.

Cocktail lovers, meanwhile, can opt for Saints to the Sea (P550), made with chili mezcal, 1800 Blanco tequila, pineapple, lime, and egg white.

Dessert rounds out the meal with comforting classics.

The Tiramisu (P450), served straight from a large pan, is rich yet airy, while the Coconut Cake (P300) stays wonderfully moist beneath its generous coating of coconut shavings.

As memorable as the food is the service. Po & Pilar staff are warm, accommodating, and impressively knowledgeable about both the menu and drink pairings, making recommendations with confidence and enthusiasm.

Po & Pilar is located at 227 Salcedo St., Legazpi Village, Makati City.

It is open for dinner from Tuesday to Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., and for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations can be made by calling +63 962 909 1749.