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Do skin lightening products work?
Meet my helper, Sarah. Sarah went home for a week’s vacation in the province and came back darker than usual. She was teased by the other members of the household staff, which resulted in her immediate purchase of whitening products.
When I asked her why, Sarah replied, “Gusto ko lang po ma’am bumalik agad yung dati kong kulay. Ayoko naman po magpaputi.”
While her skin would have returned to its normal shade eventually, I realized that I’ve heard this statement before. I had the same predicament last January when, fresh from the beach, I was confronted with a passport renewal the coming week and was not keen on sporting my extra burnt skin on my passport photo for the next five years. So I did extreme measures to get my normal skin color back.
Sarah’s regimen: soap and lotion
Sarah used a skin whitening soap from Olay that claims it has a “triple whitening system”, and Vaseline's Healthy White lotion, which boasts an “instant fair serum.” She used the soap on her face and body twice a day, then generously applied the lotion all over her body afterwards. Sarah did this in the morning and again in the evening before going to bed.
Sarah also avoided sun exposure for two weeks.
My regimen: oral cosmeceutical, then laser session
Thinking that desperate times called for desperate measures, I decided that a whitening drink was the way to go. I purchased a box of Mesoestetic Ultimate W+ elixir (P6,000) that contained six 30 ml bottles. The product claimed it “inhibits agents involved in the process of melanin synthesis.” I downed a vial after my evening meal for six consecutive days. The raspberry flavor made it easy to swallow.
To complement this, I went for a laser session at my usual skin care specialist. According to its brief, the Clear Pigment treatment is “the first fractional Q-switched laser that targets depths of pigmentation.” It was a painless procedure that lasted 15 minutes.
The results
After avoiding the sun and religiously using the products, Sarah said she was able to regain her pre-vacation complexion in ten days.
My result was less obvious. After six bottles and undergoing the laser session, there was no pronounced lightening of the skin. I had, however, clearer skin and a glow.
Do these products even work?
I asked my dermatologist, Dr. Sherwin Llego of Makati Medical Center, about skin lightening.
First, he clarified the terms used.
"In general, the words 'lightening', 'brightening' and 'whitening' are used interchangeably. However there are slight differences. For purposes of uniformity, and for your and Sarah’s objective, we will use 'lightening'. Understanding the concept of how to improve skin tone is the key to a most successful and lasting effect," he said.
I asked him to expound on the efficacy of the products we used:
Soaps: Don't expect too much
"They are effective to a certain extent, but don't expect too much. Since soaps are wash-off preparations they hardly stay on skin," he said.
Llego explained that soaps can work as lightening agents if they have exfoliants among their active ingredients. For example, he said, "papaya soap has papain enzyme that can have exfoliating properties."
Caution: Be careful of overuse. However, he warned, "Be cautious in overusing [whitening soaps] as they can cause burning also when exposed under sun and heat."
Lotions/creams: Response varies
"Lightening agents are those that inhibit the formation of tyrosinase, which produces melanin," said Dr. Llego.
Caution: Limit use and seek medical advice. "The gold standard for lightening is still the chemical HQ (hydroquinone). However, it's strong and should only be used for short periods. There are milder and safer alternatives found in these products, like the plant -derived extracts—kojic acid, alpha arbutin, mulberry and licorice.
"Response to various lightening agents are variable, depending on many factors including sun exposure, lifestyle and hormones," said Dr. Llego.
Cosmeceuticals: Not enough research
Dr. Llego stressed that there is not yet enough research on oral cosmeceuticals—products that are drunk or swallowed instead of applied topically.
"Oral cosmeceuticals lack studies to prove their being effective as a lightening agent," he said. "However, most ingredients are antioxidants that may have an effect in lightening the skin."
Caution: Check with your doctor, get tested. "As a general rule, do a baseline laboratory test before starting on any oral products. Test for liver and kidney functions, among others," the dermatologist said.
Lasers: Compatibility is key
Dr. Llego said that laser is not the first line of treatment for lightening, especially for Asian skin, "because we hyper-pigment easily."
Caution: Patient compatibility is key. "Less ablative lasers are promising. Also, fractional lasers [like the Clear Pigment treatment] have faster results and minimal downtime. Patient compatibility with the laser and patient selection are key to ensure success. Also, one session will not guarantee results.”
Patience, prudence, professional guidance...and sunscreen
Dr. Llego stressed the virtues of patience and prudence when it comes to skin lightening and skin care, and said that the best avenue is still to seek sun protection.
"[W]e live in a tropical country, [so the] first rule in lightening: use sunscreen. This alone prevents many problems in immediate post exposure and long term like sunburn and photo aging, including wrinkles and pigmentation."
To hasten lightening, he added, "you can safely use products, as long as with the guidance of doctors"—such as exfoliants, plant-derived lightening agents, or HQ ("if used properly, it's still the best," he said).
If you are sunburned, Dr. Llego recommended seeing a doctor. "The first 24 to 48 hours are very critical in pigment formation," he said.
Ultimately, the dermatologist added, everyone's skin is different. "The response of one’s skin to a certain product may not hold true [for another person]." — BM, GMA News
