Do facial rollers actually work?

Jade rollers are enjoying a renaissance of sorts thanks in large part to ringing endorsements by your favorite beauty bloggers and celebrities. According to an article in The Cut, Jade rollers—arguably the most popular type of facial roller out there—have been around since as far back as the 17th century, when the Chinese elite used them on their faces to combat puffiness, drain the lymphatic system, balance the qi, and improve blood circulation.

Today, its popularity has spawned different types of facial rollers: from other smooth-stone rollers made from rose quartz, amethyst, and obsidian to microneedle facial rollers to double-headed rollers to gold-plated, vibrating T-bars.

They have become a part of skincare routines around the globe, as much as essences, serums, and facial masks. But does a facial roller really make a big difference? Or is it just an unnecessary—and expensive—addition to an already complicated skincare routine?

According to one study, conducted by researchers from the Tokyo Institute of Technology, “Facial massaging using a roller can increase skin blood flow for more than ten minutes after the massage. It can also improve vasodilation—the widening of blood vessels—in the long term.”

But Dr Stephanie Sy-Chua, a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society, says that the effects are just about the same as when you massage your face with your fingers: It relaxes your muscles and helps with lymphatic flow. “But it does not address the science of aging (loss of collagen and skin elasticity) nor helps with product absorption—it’s just the same as applying a product with your fingertips,” she points out.

“The general consensus [is] that there is no medical evidence to back the use of facial rollers. [Although] in general, massaging the face aids in lymphatic drainage and enhances blood flow, thereby improving overall circulation in the area,” adds Leslie Colleen Acosta Tiongson MD, DPDS, a dermatologist at Metro North Medical Center.

You may get better results with microneedle facial rollers, but Sy-Chua advises against using these on your own. “Microneedling is a procedure for skin rejuvenation to help substances reach the skin better. It is a clinical procedure done by dermatologists and should not be done at home,” says Sy-Chua. “It’s not a skincare routine, but rather, it’s done in conjunction with your skincare routine regimen to get better results.”

Sy-Chua explains that because microneedling involves a device with pins and needles, a microneeedle facial roller, if used improperly or contaminated, could lead to skin infections. “Although there are different needle depths for home use, it’s still best to have the procedure done by a dermatologist,” she says.

It turns out facial rollers barely live up to the many promises they make. At best they help with lymphatic drainage and vasodilation, but as Sy-Chua points out, you can achieve the same effects just by using your fingers.

The good news is there’s not much harm in using one, but you’d probably be better off saving your money for a session with your dermatologist instead.

—JCB, GMA News