A man in knead

The stylized graphic of la tour Eiffel in the logo of the Sweet Thang says it all — a Gallic culinary experience in the heart of the Wicker Park neighborhood on Chicago’s West Side. Pastry chef-owner Bernard Eric Runo, who grew up in the neighborhood, set up the pâtisserie on bustling North Avenue in 1998, and in seven years, the pastry shop has secured a niche among the boutiques, vintage shops, bars, cafés and restaurants in this getting-trendy, getting-gentrified district of the Windy City. A knack for languages Having attended several culinary schools in Paris, Runo not only speaks fluent French, but also German and Dutch. Sweet Thang offers a wide variety of delectable victuals — from traditional French bread and pastries to quiches, dessert cakes, and panini sandwiches. A large component of its business comes from wedding and specialty cakes, an average of 300 orders a year. The clientele is eclectic — young professionals, couples with young kids, artists, musicians, tourists, and neighborhood types. The young 14-person staff, which sometimes includes the owner’s two teenage daughters, is multinational—one or two speak languages other than English. Runo himself is fluent in French, German, and Dutch, among others. The high-ceilinged, sunlight-bathed, 2,000 square feet interiors speak North Little Italy, Manhattan; or Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris.White square moldings embellish the antique gold tin ceiling, from which hang five huge velvet lamps with silk fringes. There is enough seating for 20 people. The eight tables are painted black, and so are the wrought-iron chairs with red leather seats and tufted heart-shaped backs. The vermillion sidewall provides a revolving gallery for artist-friends to exhibit their paintings and photographs. (A photo of the owner and Bill Clinton occupies a prominent place on another wall.) Runo comes from a family who loves to cook (he remembers a steady stream of Filipino nurses coming to the house for Sunday meals). So, although his parents (father Bonifacio is a nurse, mother Remedios, a lawyer) had wished he would grow up to be a doctor or a lawyer, nobody was really surprised when he expressed an interest in becoming a chef. “Just make sure you become the best chef you could be,” his father admonished. So at age 19, Runo went to Paris, learned French at the Université de Paris, La Sorbonne, and then enrolled in the École de la Chambre de Commerce et d‘Industrie de Paris, from where he earned diplomas in cuisine classique, pâtissier, glacier, chocolatier, and confiseur (translation: classic cuisine, pastry chef, ice cream maker, chocolate maker and confectioner). He traveled to other parts of Europe, living briefly in the Netherlands and Belgium, before returning home. For 10 years he worked as concierge or pastry chef in some major hotels in downtown Chicago. Two years after his last job as executive pastry chef at Swissotel, he struck out on his own. There was never a question that the business would be located in the neighborhood where he was born in and which he has always called home. (His house is located about a mile from the shop.) And why a pâtisserie? “I love working with my hands,” says Runo, who loves playing musical instruments as well. “Pastry-making is not unlike doing sculpture. The sugar paste is like edible clay. And the molding utensils might as well be sculpting tools. Working with dough is a sensual experience. Flour is soft to the touch. Yeast rises. Kneading and braiding are very gestural.” So how do pastry chefs differ from cooking chefs? “Cooking chefs are instinctual; they just know how to do it. Pastry chefs, on the other hand, are methodical and precise. Measurements have to be exact. They plan on planning,” he explains. Runo knows that to sustain success, especially in a fast-transforming location like Wicker Park, he must maintain the quality of his products, but that he must be on the cutting edge as well. It means using only the best ingredients and experimenting all the time. “Food is continually evolving,” he says. Runo’s cake designs are practically works of art, most of them almost too pretty to be eaten. He and his staff look for motif and style wherever they can find them, not the least from Runo’s Asian heritage. For example, he has done a wedding cake with an intricate bamboo design incorporated into the icing. One can say that Runo is completely into design, judging from the tattoos he wears on his arms (most parts of which are, of course, covered when he dons the chef uniform when he is at work). He is an active member of the Tatak ng Apat na Alon (Mark of the Four Waves) Tribe, an association dedicated to the revival of traditional Filipino tattoos. “Getting tattoos is a hip thing to do nowadays,” he says, “but not many know that Filipinos have been doing it for centuries.” Pointing to a particular design on his arm, he says, “They symbolize my daughters, Simone and Naia.” Has he used tattoo designs on his cakes? “Of course! One time I made a Mother’s Day cake that had Filipino tattoo motifs,” he laughs. For sure, Runo does tattoo artists — and Filipinos — proud. And that’s a Sweet Thang! Following is a recipe from Sweet Thang (www.sweethangcakes.com). Tomato Basil Mozzarella Quiche Crust 9 oz. all purpose flour 4.5 oz. butter 3 to 3.5 oz. cold water pinch of saltFilling 6 eggs 1 quart heavy whipping cream salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, ground nutmeg3 to 4 medium-sized tomatoes 4 oz. fresh basil leaves 1/2 red onion 10 oz. shredded mozzarella cheese Preparing the Dough Place flour, salt, and butter in a mixer. Blend until there are no large pieces of butter then add the cold water. Mix until all the flour is absorbed. Ball the dough and wrap it in plastic. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour.Preparing the Filling Beat 6 eggs then add the salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper, garlic powder and ground nutmeg to taste. Slowly add the heavy whipping cream. Do not whip as bubbles may form. Remove the dough from the fridge and roll out into a 12’’ tart pan. Dock the bottom with small holes, line the bottom with parchment paper (coffee filters work fine, too) and weigh down the center (you can use uncooked rice). Pre-bake the crust in a 350o oven for about 15 minutes. Remove the parchment and rice. Let crust cool. Patch up any large holes so that filling will not leak out. You can use the same dough or some of the shredded mozzarella cheese. Begin filling the tart pan with alternating layers of tomato slices, onion, fresh basil leaves and mozzarella cheese. Fill the tart pan with the cream/egg mixture until it’s almost to the rim. Bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes or until it’s fully cooked in the center.

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This article comes from the online version of Filipinas Magazine (www.filipinasmag.com), a publication based in Daly City, California.