Spot: Is Paul Calvin's Deli really a deli?

MANILA, Philippines – Is it a deli or a restaurant? Even if it says Paul Calvin’s Deli on the façade, it’s really hard to distinguish. Sure, there are token meats and specialty cheeses on proud display, as well as breads and imported canned gourmet goods lining the shelves of one wall. But the menu is extensive and reasonably priced. I’m not used to this sense of order – I’m more familiar with delis being loud and crazy, with sandwiches being offered, at most (and usually costing an arm and a leg). Isn’t this the image that we all grew up with through TV shows and movies and the random visit to the delis here? Named after grandfather Chef Jonathan Paul Em of Paul Calvin’s Deli – of all people – should know what "real" delis are like. He left a stint as a pastry cook at the Mandarin Oriental Manila to work his way up to being one of the pioneer chefs at the Gramercy Park Hotel in Manhattan. He was called back to Manila late last year for the death of his grandfather (after whom the deli is also named), all the while planning to return to the States after performing the usual family obligations. But a short visit extended to an indefinite stay, giving him time to ruminate on the idea of starting a deli. Paul Calvin’s interior is warm, with orange refurbished antique chairs set against the lime green wall. The placement of furnishings feels deliberate but never contrived. But upon entering the deli, my question remains unanswered: Is it a deli or is it a restaurant? Sticking to what's good Chef Jon’s philosophy of "sticking to what’s good" is a simple one that works and is executed each day at Paul Calvin’s. Although there are food items for sale, most of them can also be enjoyed through the items on the menu. And being an experienced pastry chef, Chef Jon also has a wide array of baked goodies for sale. Most memorable of the goods is the Malunggay Loaf (P180) that’s healthy and tastes nothing like the leafy, green vegetable. The menu is also packed with comfort food with a twist. Take the best selling Braised Beef Short Ribs (P369), which Chef Jon laughingly refers to as his sosyal pares – referring to the ubiquitous beef dish served on almost every carinderia in the country. It's tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat, slow-cooked with pineapples and star anise and punched with rum. Instead of pairing the ribs with rice, it’s served with chef’s own garlic potato gratin. Another must-try item is the Steamed Cream Dory (249), delicious on its own but even more so with the red curry sauce and the tamarind rice it comes with. Chef also recommends the Rosemary Crusted Pink Salmon (P349), which uses Chef Jon’s own rosemary grown in pots at the entrance of the deli. Freshest choice ingredients And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. There are pastas, salads, sandwiches, even breakfast items (make sure to try the very special Homemade Tapa), and delectable desserts. Chef Jon insists on using only the freshest choice ingredients, oftentimes doing the marketing himself to ensure quality. The result is this happy surprise. A contradiction between two worlds that works – a deli stocked with the best quality food items and a restaurant that keeps it real and good. Paul Calvin’s Deli has remained the best-kept secret in a city that doesn’t hold secrets for long. The way Chef Jon is going, the truth will surely get out there faster than you can say "deli." Paul Calvin's Deli is located at Unit F 111 Forbes Town Center, Rizal Drive, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. For inquiries, call 856-5900. Spot.ph