Besides frog legs, fries and snails, what comes to mind when anyone mentions French food? For the culinarily challenged such as myself, it’s not uncommon to associate French servings with tiny and expensive dishes. Thus, I consider myself lucky to have enjoyed the masterpieces of strictly French bistro food in La Regalade. Since it opened on Arnaiz Avenue, Makati, almost two years ago, La Regalade Manila has served as the single station in Asia of celebrated chef Alain Rayé. Prior to landing a spot in Manila, the two-star Michelin Chef had his first restaurant in Albertville, France. He engaged in the cutthroat competition in Paris where he established two restaurants and earned his second Michelin star. Then he relocated with his family to Vancouver where he set up the original La Regalade. In 2008, after seeing potential in our wet markets and produce, Rayé decided to bring authentic French cuisine – strictly authentic, as the bistro operators like to reiterate – to the Philippines. While Rayé himself always considers the use of “fresh regional ingredients," La Regalade makes it a point not to compromise its menu by resorting to hints of fusion to suit locals’ taste buds.
Where the culinary magic happens. The Specials Board is changed daily.
That was my first lesson. As I ran through whatever few memories I had of eating in French restaurants, I realized that several dishes I had previously seen or tasted did not have anything French in it at all. And while a friend and I were waiting for dinner, we were given a brief background on French cuisine and the restaurant itself. Apparently, the tiny servings that I had imagined earlier are what constitute fine dining. Bistro food, on the other hand, meant big servings that are usually shared among family or friends in a relaxed setting. As I noted the presence of company and comfort, we were warned that La Regalade's servings were big enough to satiate more people, to which I was skeptical at first. Then came the food. As was recommended to me by my father who frequents the venue, we started our meal with La Regalade's celebrated French Onion Soup. The presentation alone was enough to wow me, but as I used the appropriate spoon to break through the layer of gratinated gruyere cheese and sip a scoop of the soup, the amazing flavor completely overpowered the pain of my slightly singed tongue. Never before had I tasted such rich, sinful soup. Each ingredient in the mix stood out yet blended harmoniously together, noticeable even to my inexperienced palate. And somehow, no one at the table was able to sip their bowls clean. Just as I was wondering how I wasn’t able to conquer a single bowl of soup, especially of that quality, all the bigger plates arrived.
The French Onion Soup is a hearty start to your meal.
Well, slightly bigger. The appetizer, which I had mistaken for a main serving, was Escargot en Cruoton. Other than our very own kuhol and a chance encounter with escargot as a child, I had no idea of how great this preparation would be. The blend of butter, garlic, prosciutto and parsley was exquisite, with its balanced tang gushing out from the doughy texture of crouton. I vowed then and there to pay La Regalade a second visit in the not-so-distant future, if only for a repeat of the so-called appetizer. Another recommendation, the Boeuf Bourguignon, is comprised of imported beef cooked in red wine, with bacon, mushrooms and shallots. By the second bite, I was already thinking that I didn’t deserve to eat such food, yet I shamelessly went on, as if I couldn’t believe that it was that good. In fact it was perfect with its tender pieces. The house then recommended that I supplement it with a Ruby Red Super Bock – a dark Portuguese beer that I found better than its regular counterpart that I had downed earlier. So as to be able to give a fair assessment of the other dishes, I weaned myself away from the beef. Next up was the Chicken Provençale, and like everything else already served, it was masterfully prepared with a variety of vegetables that formed a pool of sauce right under the fowl. A single order could possibly feed a table of three, or maybe two really, really hungry diners.
Chicken Provençale is prepared with a fresh vegetable variety-based sauce.
Despite already being full, with all of the dishes still having around a third of leftovers, we were practically forced to sample the Angus Rib Eye. Served in measurements of either six or eight ounces, the rib eye is also cooked in red wine, shallots and garlic, while being overcrowded with French fries on the side. Even the lower weighed option seemed too much for any single eater to finish (and yes, none of us were able to finish it). The bite also emerges great with sips of the aforementioned Ruby Red. After all that eating, believe it or not, we were still expected to try at least one of their sinful desserts. A request for a ten-minute break before spoiling ourselves further with goodies then allowed for more back-and-forth on the bistro’s methods. Their stock of food is replaced frequently with some meats being flown in directly from France and produce ordered weekly from Tagaytay to assure freshness. The interior of the restaurant was designed to be passive but not boring. Apparently, it’s part of Rayé’s philosophy of providing guests with a conducive ambience for bistro eating. Apparently, Rayé has an antipathy towards embellishing his restaurant walls, as he saw little point in decorative touches when the food should speak for itself.
The hotel-like ladies’ comfort room. This is the lounge area before the actual amenities.
However, with framed articles on the bistro’s success, chalk-drawn figures here and there, and a standing chalkboard announcing other specials propped right next to your table, the restaurant’s aesthetics do a good job in steering clear of pretentiousness and haute that are usually associated with French dining. Ladies will be delighted to know that La Regalade boasts of unarguably the best female comfort room I’ve ever heard of among those of most establishments in Metro Manila. Technically, the female restroom easily goes beyond the word ‘homey’ as it is of 5-star hotel quality. Plush seats are stationed in a lounge enclosure right before the actual comfort room, where there are complete amenities for all womanly rituals. It’s even armed with its own air-conditioner. Of course I wasn’t able to inspect it for myself, and unfortunately, the male restroom is a lot less extravagant. Finally, among their varied sweets on the dessert menu, we opted for the Tarte Chocolat, which slightly resembles local crinkle cookies because of sprinkled sweetener on top. This tart really adds the finishing touches to a gastronomically wonderful night. Warm chocolate floods your palate with every bite, and its expert arrangement became symbolic of the entire meal – unbelievably great.
Tarte Chocolat – a dessert that overtakes the cake, pun intended.
Any apprehension concerning the bill – as French or other fancy restaurants might entail – should be forgotten here as every dish is more than worth whatever you pay for. You might as well not even consider it. And before attempting to stand from our table with the difficulty born of complete satiety, I couldn’t help but wonder how any of the other customers could continue post-meal pleasantries. After having internalized all of what was presented that night, and despite having to describe it all here, I walked out that door with all my senses overly gratified, so that I was figuratively and literally speechless. But burping rather regally.
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