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Chinese food with a touch of Zen at P.F. Chang's
Over here, Chinese restaurants almost always bring to mind either a busy, harshly-lit Binondo diner where MSG-laden dishes are served over the noise of clattering silverware and chattering folk on toyo-stained vinyl tabletops. That, or a multi-level floating restaurant with a more luxurious ambiance but with the same boisterous energy.
For most people, this exciting albeit chaotic environment is part and parcel of the Chinese dining experience, but the vibe is quite different at the recently launched P.F Chang's China Bistro in Alabang, the first Southeast Asian branch of the popular international restaurant chain based in the US.
The Mongolian Beef uses Angus beef strips. Photos by Amanda Lago
Terra-cotta warrior replicas stood by the restaurant's otherwise unassuming entrance, looking like they were guarding a well-kept secret. Meanwhile, the interiors were dimly-lit, starkly clean, minimal, and relatively Zen-like for a Chinese restaurant, revealing a Japanese sensibility beneath the decidedly Chinese atmosphere.
True enough, P.F Chang's co-founder Philip Chiang who was in town this week for the launch, revealed that living in Tokyo, he was "surrounded by all things Japanese whose influences I have applied to various segments of my life [including] the spiritual, the importance of nature, and the Japanese reverence for visual aesthetics."
Of course, being a chef, the Zen influence mostly affected Chiang's take on food. He shared, "When I recall my favorite food experiences over the years, I always arrive at some very simple fare, uncontrived, 'unadorned'... I asked that there be no garnishing, no extraneous ingredients, and that there be no more than three ingredients in each dish...It all had to come together as if by force of nature."
Every bite of the Chengdu Spiced Lamb bursts with bags of flavor.
Simple and pure
One needed only to taste the dishes at P.F Chang's to understand what Chiang meant. As starters were served at the restaurant's media launch Tuesday, the simplicity and purity of Chiang's culinary philosophy became evident.
The restaurant's signature appetizer, Chang's Chicken Lettuce Wrap, was arguably the standout among the lineup of starters. The lettuce was clean and crisp, an explosion of freshness enveloping the seared, minced chicken inside.
The Dynamite Shrimp was also memorable. The crispy, juicy shrimp served on a bed of lettuce in a martini glass took the classic Chinese combination of sweet and spicy flavors to new heights.
The Steamed Dumplings may have looked plain and boring, but they proved to be special—silky, fat and full of meat, soft to the bite, and perfectly savory.
By the time the entrees were served, everyone at the table was already full, but with a little friendly encouragement from the servers — enthusiastic, personalized service is a P.F Chang's trademark — everyone decided to make some room in his/her stomach for the incoming dishes.
The Mongolian Beef came highly recommended by the waiters, and understandably so—the Angus beef strips were wok-cooked to perfection, and the meat, together with the garlic and scallions, had everyone asking for more.
The next dish, Shrimp with Candied Walnuts and Honeydew, proved that while simple, P.F Chang's dishes are certainly not boring. The tanginess of the shrimp was countered by the creaminess of the sauce and was given even more dimension by the buttery-sweet honeydew melons and crunchy walnuts. While it probably won’t suit everyone’s taste, it certainly made for a unique and interesting dish that will be loved by those who do enjoy it.
The Chengdu Spiced Lamb was also a star dish. Tossed with tomatoes and onions, every bite of the tender lamb burst with bags of flavor. The dish falls under P.F Chang's Emperor's Choice menu, and fittingly so, because along with the Mongolian Beef, this dish was arguably the most delicious.
While simple, the Shrimp with Candied Walnuts and Honeydew makes for a unique and interesting dish
Missing the mark
A couple of dishes did slightly miss the mark, though. The Northern Style Spare Ribs, for example, was rather dry and a tad too chewy, though nothing bad can be said about its flavor, which was perfectly complemented by the five-spice salt rub it was served with.
The Lo Mein too was not exactly a standout. There was nothing really different about it, though to be fair it was delicious in its own right. The fact that it had a vegetarian version was also much-appreciated.
And that’s another thing about P.F Chang's. The restaurant is very considerate of diners with diet restrictions, particularly vegetarians and those who cannot tolerate gluten. In fact, their menu and plates are specially marked to indicate vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. They are also one of the rare restaurants in the Philippines that serve brown rice as well as white, and in the tradition of Mang Inasal, offers our staple food in unlimited amounts for dine-in customers.
When asked why he chose to open his first Southeast Asian branch in the Philippines, Chiang jokingly quipped that it's because he and the country share a name, but hastened to add in all earnestness that among other reasons, he opened here because we already have a great knowledge of Chinese food.
And it's true. We do know Chinese food, but not quite like they do it at P.F Chang's. Without the MSG and the abundance of sauce and oil, the restaurant's Chinese dishes are barely recognizable — until you taste them and realize that yes, Chinese cuisine can be simple and still incredibly satisfying. –KG, GMA News
P.F Chang's China Bistro at The Street in Alabang Town Center opens to the public on Jan. 19.
