Stockpile Manila, a welcome addition to the Ortigas dining scene

Stockpile at the Sapphire Bloc. Photo: @sunshinekitchen.resto/Facebook

Aside from being a central business district (CBD), Ortigas Center in Pasig is best known for having one of the worst traffic during rush hour. Unlike the CBD’s of Makati and Taguig, the one surprising characteristic lacking in the Ortigas area is its breadth of choices when it comes to quality casual and fine dining.

Slowly and surely, though, new restaurants and concepts have sprouted in the vicinity, particularly along Sapphire Road.

Aside from the newly built 5-star Marco Polo Ortigas, the mix-use development Sapphire Bloc features new options like South American-Filipino fusion Sobremesa, Moonshine (bar and cocktails), and classic comfort food of Stockpile.

It is at the later where we found ourselves in after a collegiate volleyball game in San Juan. Due to the private event happening at the main dining area, we were seated outside, which was really fine with us. The soft, early March evening breeze was a pleasant surprise and gave our dining experience a romantic al fresco touch.

My partner and I started our meal with soup as starters. I had the Chicken Pot Pie Soup (P240), a cream-based soup with vegetables, slices of chicken, and covered with puff pastry while my companion decided to have the soup of the day, Pumpkin Soup (P195).

The Chicken Pot Pie Soup (L) is topped with flaky puffed pastry. Slowly pierce your way through the crust to reveal the cream-based chicken soup. Photo: Stanley See.

It was fun scooping the puff pastry into the soup, but the soup itself was a little too thin and not quite creamy enough to be called hearty or comforting. It also lacked the proper seasoning and depth of flavor. I tasted my partner’s Pumpkin Soup and noted that hers tasted way better than mine.

We narrowed down our choice for our main course by looking at Stockpile’s bestsellers, deciding on the Truffled Four-cheese Pasta with Smoked Bacon (P395) and the Six-hour Slow Roasted Porchetta (P520).

The grown-up macaroni and cheese used Italian provolone and grana padano, French brie, and mozzarella cheese together with what looked like conchiglie (shell) pasta, and topped with generous pieces of bacon.

The balance of flavors were just right; the sauce was not too salty while the shell pasta was still al dente. Unlike most establishments that use too much truffles or truffle oil in their pastas, Stockpile held back and didn't let it overpower the other ingredients. 

Some form of starch like rice, potato, or bread is needed to balance the richness of the Six-Hour Slow Roasted Porchetta. Photo: Stanely See.

The other bestseller, the slow roasted porchetta, looks and sounds better on the menu. Despite the soft, almost melt-in-your-mouth pork belly meat, Stockpile’s version was far from my expectations of the traditional, rolled-up, Italian version.

The meat is heavily seasoned and instead of the side order of carrots and haricot verts (French bean), Stockpile should consider serving it with a form of starch like rice, potato, or bread to cut the richness and prevent people's tongues from getting bored with the taste, or worse, surfeited (read: umay). 

Two desserts on the menu caught our eyes and piqued curiosities: the Key Lime Pie Ice Cream (P100/per scoop) and the Salted Caramel Cheesecake (P220). The ice cream was generously dusted with crushed Graham crackers, while the cheesecake was doused with salted caramel.

While I found nothing wrong with the Key Lime Pie Ice Cream, I personally would have preferred to eat an actual key lime pie. The Salted Caramal Cheesecake—with just the right combination of tartness, saltiness, and sweetness—was a winner.

Both desserts pair perfectly with a fresh cup of coffee, and can be eaten to cap off lunch or dinner, or as an afternoon treat. —AT/KG, GMA News

The Stockpile is located at G/F, The Sapphire Bloc, Sapphire and Garnet Road, Ortigas Center, Pasig City.