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RESTAURANT REVIEW

Flame Restaurant brings theater kitchen to the dining room


The Apple, Apple, Apple! is a sweet and crispy treat at Flame Restaurant in Discovery Primea in Makati. Photos: Nikka Sarthou-Lainez
 

 

Unlike other fancy hotel restaurants that are formal and stiff, the new Flame Restaurant in Discovery Primea is more trendy and interactive, but still upscale.

Opened in June, this dining establishment welcomes its diners with a floor-to-ceiling “living chandelier” accented with Spanish moss, locally known as Buhok ni Ester. New World décor is showcased throughout the space, which can accommodate around 80 diners. Located on the 16th floor, it offers a good vantage point where you can see the Makati skyline, and the view is even more spectacular at night.

A theater kitchen and cheese program

Flame has also introduced a unique hotel-dining concept where patrons can get a seat at the hub by the marble-top open kitchen and interact with the chefs as they prepare the food. Make sure to do so, so you can ask the chefs about the dishes and get to appreciate them some more.

“We feature modern European cuisine but with an Asian comfort twist. There will be flavors, presentations, concepts that will have an Asian flavor to it, but at its core is modern European,” said David Pardo de Ayala, general manager and “chef-at-heart,” who added that some people might think, incorrectly, that Flame is a steakhouse because of its name. “No. ‘Flame’ is for passion. Our passion—my team and I—for creating memorable, new, and world-class experiences through food.”

Along with Pardo de Ayala, executive chef Luis Chikiamco helped craft the menu. They know that people are very well-traveled and informed, and want to see something new and exciting but still recognizable on their plates.

The restaurant is probably also the first one to have an interesting cheese program. “We wanted the latter part of the meal to be as interesting and exciting as the start. So we have cheese preparations that are contemporary—little bit different. For us, cheese is as important as chocolate,” says Pardo de Ayala, pointing out that of the 12 items on the dessert menu, four have cheese. He said that some diners come in late at night for some after-dinner wine and cheese.

Foie gras and scallops and short ribs! Oh my!

Flame is the kind of restaurant where you can bring someone you want to impress. Whether it’s a romantic date or business socials, the fantastic food and wonderful view will make it a memorable dining experience.

For starters, order the Asian Beef Carpaccio and see the chef prepare the dish by layering slices of Certified Angus Beef, fresh arugula, wasabi nuts, sriracha and soy vinaigrette. It’s like watching a cooking show on television, but it’s even better because you see it in person. As you wait for the finished product, you can enjoy complimentary ciabatta bread served with organic butter from Bukidnon and infused oil they make in-house.

Definitely a must-try is the Quezo de Bola & Hamon inspired by the great Massimo Bottura, an Italian restaurateur with a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena, Italy. The cheese concoction pairs well with the sweet glazed ham, soft gelee, asparagus, and the crunchy cheese crisp. Best to share this with your dinner companion as its strong flavor goes a long way.

 

As a seafood lover, I liked the Pan-Seared US Scallops served with porcini mushroom marmalade, endive, and Madeira-mirin glaze. I’m used to the local small shellfish meat so this was a nice treat for me. Its mild flavors complemented the umami-rich mushroom marmalade, and the greens gave a contrast of texture and taste.

But my favorite hot appetizer was the Pan-Seared Foie Gras with teriyaki eggplant, pickled pears, and nori-tempura crunch. Anything with foie gras is a winner in my book! It melted in my mouth like butter, and it was just perfect with the eggplant’s hint of sweetness, the tart pears, and crunchy tempura bits. It’s a decadent dish that’s worth every calorie.

 

Another notable duck dish was the Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with pumpkin puree, charred leeks, radishes, and spiced honey glaze. For me, the texture of the meat reminds me more of beef than poultry. It was the glaze that certainly gave the dish more oomph.

One entrée that would make carnivores salivate is the Braised U.S. Short Ribs that was placed on a bed of creamy celeriac puree, mustard seeds, and ginger tamarind sauce. You know that it was cooked for hours since the beef is fork tender. Flame’s main dishes are all seared, grilled, and torched from the Josper Oven (a grill and oven in one) that uses charcoal.

 

For me, a meal wouldn’t be complete without dessert. The Apple, Apple, Apple! is a pretty light treat. It features caramelized apples, Calvados cream, and apple gelée on a cinnamon puff pastry. It’s good, but not really my cup of tea since chocolate is my definition of dessert. I loved the Flourless Chocolate Cake with homemade pistachio ice cream. The dark chocolate cake was simply divine paired with the cool ice cream. Although my sweet tooth already rejoiced in this treat, I couldn’t pass up the chance of tasting one of the cheese desserts. I sampled the Taleggio, an Italian semisoft cheese that is served with homemade apricot and cherry mostarda (Italian fruit and mustard condiment). I don’t normally associate cheese with dessert, but I liked it because it’s something different.

 

Next time I’ll come back with my hubby in tow so we can have a wine and cheese date night soon. — BM, GMA News

Flame (955-8888 local 71610) on the 16th floor of Discovery Primea, Ayala Avenue, Makati City is open for dinner from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Mondays to Saturdays.