Savoring paella cochinillo and other colonial Spanish dishes at Café Enye

Many Filipinos are familiar with Spanish cuisine. How could we not be, given that the Philippines was colonized by Spain for over 300 years? Some aspects of their culture, especially the food, have been ingrained in ours.

I have developed a liking for its flavors because of my sense of familiarity with it, and I consider it one of my favorite world cuisines, so I wouldn't pass up a chance at dining in a new Spanish restaurant like Café Enye.

The accent walls, mismatched chairs, and eclectic decor make Cafe Enye an interesting dining place. Photos: Nikka Sarthou-Lainez.

The spacious establishment, which opened in January 2016, feels more like a casual family restaurant than a typical café. When my husband and I recently had dinner there, we saw large groups having a complete meal together. We got a table by one of the colored couches, and I appreciated the eclectic décor of the place. 

There were accent walls adorned with framed paintings, mirrors, and other knickknacks that make for good conversation pieces. Unlike traditional Spanish restaurants, this one didn’t feel formal or stiff because of its warm wooden furnishings with intentionally mismatched chairs. The flooring also had portions made with Spanish tiles for some accent. 

Among these elements though, the one I couldn’t get my eyes off was the wall decorated with colored teacups shaped like the letter “ñ”.

Beyond the usual Spanish flavors

“Our dishes are inspired from where the Spaniards have settled, specifically Northern Morocco, Argentina, Central America, and the Philippines. We aim to offer a unique blend of new flavors, innovative ingredient pairings, infused with local flair,” says Chef Ungco who manages the kitchen along with Chef Cris Dytuco.

My hubby and I started with some customary Spanish tapas. We tried the Gambas Enye Style, which was the most garlicky shrimp dish I've ever had. The peeled and deveined shrimps were cooked in garlic-infused olive oil, topped with garlic chips, garlic chives, and half of a whole roasted garlic bulb at the center of it all. Good thing I like the flavor of garlic, but I would’ve loved the dish more if it had more heat.

We both enjoyed the Pollo Croquettas, crispy bechamel-flavored chicken croquettas topped with pickled onions, crispy garlic chips, and served with a creamy dipping sauce. It’s always more pleasing to the palate if there’s a contrast of textures, and this dish delivered with its crispy breading and velvety filling. Best eaten with the dip to give it more zest.

For those not on a diet, go all out with the Lechon Carbonara. The name kind of says it all—it has that classic pasta carbonara and lechon element from the slices of homemade mojo chicharrones scattered around the plate. There’s a raw egg yolk on top of the pasta pile that you must mix in with the noodles right away so it will cook with the residual heat. It’s a very rich dish that’s worth trying, but if you’re counting calories, feel free to do as I did and share it with someone.

The Fish Mojo Skewer comes with Enye rice

One of Café Enye’s must-try main dishes is the Fish Mojo Skewer that comes with two sticks of citrus-marinated fish skewers, cilantro yogurt, and Harissa and Latin salsa. Diners can choose to get Enye rice, French fries, or mashed potatoes to go along with it. The fish fillet is tender but it packs a punch because of the harissa (Tunisian hot chili pepper paste). Make sure to also get some cilantro yogurt to tame the spiciness. 

For a milder entrée, there’s the Enye Cocido, classic Spanish stew of chicken and pork with carrots, cabbage, and plantains. Like with most mains, this also has a choice of Enye rice, French fries, or mashed potatoes. Apart from that, it is served with eggplant relish on the side. It’s a very meaty dish—enough for three people to share. With just one bite, I was able to get the hint of sweetness from the plantain and the lace of licorice from the star anise.

What’s a Spanish restaurant without paella? Both my hubby and I are fans of this iconic rice dish, and we agreed it’s our best dish of the night, Paella Cochinillo. Although it wasn’t served in a traditional paellera, we devoured it to the last grain of rice anyway. We really liked its savory taste, and how we would get bits of tender pork and garbanzos with every spoonful. It was barely enough for us two paella lovers, but I guess it gives us another reason to come back. 

The pork bits give some fatty goodness to the Paella Cochinillo.

Instead of the classic wine, I thought I’d try the Enye sangria to accompany our meal. I imagined this handcrafted cocktail would be a girly drink since it has fresh apple, kiwi, lychee, and pineapple soaked in white wine, but the splash of soda and gin was enough to give me a little buzz. 

We couldn’t leave without sinking our teeth into one of Café Enye’s new desserts, Pumpkin Cheesecake. I can promise you, it’s not like any other cheesecake you’ve tried before.

This one is obviously flavored with pumpkin, but it is also deliciously topped with cinnamon cream, and drizzled with bacon jam. Yes, there were bacon bits in this cake. The sweet and savory combo sounds weird but it works! Believe me.

I wouldn’t hesitate to order it again on my next visit, probably during daytime so I can try their freshly roasted coffee and their new brunch offerings. — AT, GMA News

Café Enye is located at G/F Excelsior Condominium, Eastwood Avenue, Eastwood City; Open daily from 7:00am to 1:00am. For inquiries or reservations, contact (02) 671-3230.