The snows of Copenhagen

There’s a saying in Europe that goes, “there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing." The phrase easily came to mind as I watched joggers all covered up in sleek thermal outfits loping past the bus on a gloomy winter morning in Copenhagen.

Unmindful of the bitter cold, environment-conscious city folk wove in and out of the busy streets in what looked like old-fashioned bicycles. With baskets in front, and often with an extra perch at the back for toddlers, bikes are one of the most common forms of transportation in the compact city. They have their own lanes, and even traffic lights. Coming from car-crazy Manila, it was refreshing to watch Copenhagen’s cyclists claiming their right on the road as much as the buses and cars. Still, I could not imagine how they managed to pedal in such a carefree manner in their knee-high boots and long overcoats. In my four-layer outfit, I could barely trudge through the snow-laden streets for more than two blocks without ducking into a warm place to thaw out. I had arrived in the city just before Christmas a few weeks ago, and even though we could have free use of bikes at the conference I was attending, I never had the guts to avail of the offer. Instead, I was content to watch the cars and bikes go by as the first snow flurries drifted down the main thoroughfares on the fourth day of my stay. The twinkling lights of the Tivoli Gardens, the major tourist attraction in the city, provided a touch of gaiety to the gray cityscape. Still, a colleague from Germany could not help but wonder how revelers could manage to enjoy a rollercoaster ride in the theme park in the biting cold. At first, our small group of journalists from all over the world found our modest hotel in the little village of Dragor a tad too sleepy and inconvenient for the daily commute to the conference center. But as the expansive green lawns were slowly covered by a carpet of white snow, we began to appreciate the winter wonderland just outside our tiny windows. Ice floes swept past the yachts moored on the port of Dragor. Sometimes, I wondered how the Filipino seamen in the passing ships managed to withstand the freezing temperatures in the cold sea. Out on the bay, the bridge winding out to Malmo in Sweden was a captivating sight, but only when viewed from the warmth of a hotel room. Walking along the quiet sidewalks with the snow swept neatly to the sides, I was thankful that I had bought a pair of leather shoes with rubber soles just before the trip. Unlike a previous winter conference when I was slipping and sliding in the frozen streets, this time around, my skid-proof ankle boots came in handy for extended walks on the icy surface. Like many European cities, Copenhagen has many pedestrian-only areas and walking is very much part of the daily routine, even in chilly weather. Whenever we had spare time, our group would join the throngs of people strolling up and down Stroget street, the main shopping area. The wide avenue was festooned with bright holiday décor, and tourists who lose their way can easily find a friendly local to set them on the right track. On our last day in the city, GMANews.TV contributor Pia Faustino and I were lucky enough to find seats at the Royal Cafe, a popular local hangout. Sharing a table with other diners, we had a decadent layer cake with coffee and mulled wine while contemplating potential good buys from the souvenirs displayed in elegant disarray around the cheery hall – from dainty Christmas tree mobiles to images of the little mermaid, the icon of Copenhagen. In the damp courtyard, Pia pointed to a Santa Claus suit that was hanging on the clothesline. In the evening, our journalists’ group had a farewell dinner at the Cap Horn in Nyhavn, the canal district where children’s writer Hans Christian Andersen once lived. We fortified ourselves with specially brewed beer and hearty Danish fare before bundling up in our coats and scarves for the frosty ride home. My winter gear will now be passed on to a former staff from Palawan who’s going to the Netherlands at the end of January for a three-month radio internship. Reading about the severe storms in Europe and knowing it will be dead of winter when she gets there, I really can’t say I envy her. – GMANews.TV