Business (and shopping) as usual in Martial Law Bangkok

Bangkok has always been a favorite getaway. A quick trip to this country never fails to load me with culture, food and retail.

But on May 19, 2014, the Thai military imposed Martial Law after months of the political turmoil that toppled the government of Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra. This ruling prompted travel advisories from different governments around the world, warning their citizens of potential hazards when traveling to Thailand.

The Philippines was no exception. The Department of Foreign Affairs was quick to issue an alert level two, or a restriction phase for Filipinos intending to visit the Land of Smiles. This means, Filipinos residing in or travelling to Thailand are advised to restrict “non-essential movements,” avoid public places and prepare for evacuation “if necessary.” The Philippine Embassy in Thailand also reminded Filipinos to “exercise extreme caution” during these times.

With such strong alert coupled with various reports that add to the tension, majority of travelers have either postponed or cancelled their trips, particularly to the capital of Bangkok, just to be safe.

But not us. My mom, brother, sister-in-law, and I planned our Bangkok trip during the thick of its political demonstrations and collectively decided to brave a foreign nation's Martial Law.

From our arrival at the Suvarnabhumi airport to traversing the streets leading to the city, everything exuded a “business as usual” vibe. We were on the lookout for armed soldiers manning all the pathways, but this was not the case.

Only MBK Center, which is Bangkok’s biggest shopping mall, had a permanent presence of police trucks and police officers—but this is also because there was a police station nearby. Other than that, the shopping districts we frequented, such as Central World, Siam Paragon, and Terminal 21, lacked such a police force. Buddhist temples and other tourist destinations like the River City were also military-free.

Visiting on a weekday, Bangkok traffic was as heavy as expected during the rush hours. Being unfamiliar with the streets, we did not know if our drivers avoided routes that may have led to political gatherings or other related activities. Suffice to say, expected travel times to all the locations on our itinerary were met without delay.

A curfew was imposed from 12 m.n. to 5 a.m. This was further emphasized by a circular found in each of our hotel rooms. Our trip being centered on satisfying our food and retail cravings, the curfew was not a problem since the operating hours of our preferred establishments were unaffected.

However, those who will visit Bangkok for its popular creative and exotic shows will have to adjust to the midnight ruling. Patpong, one of the most notorious entertainment districts, used to welcome guests until the wee hours of the morning but now has to strictly comply with the midnight curfew.

Hotel rates remain the same but are more lenient with their check in and check out times. Shopping has always been relatively cheap in Bangkok, but if you’re expecting Martial Law to bring down retail prices to an all-time low, like I was, then you’re in for a disappointment. Sellers in open market Chatuchak and ready-to-wear hub Platinum Fashion Mall know very well that they are still a tourists’ terminus. Generally, their prices were not open for further bargain.

Wann, a tuk-tuk driver of ten years, shared his sentiments about his country’s state: “We are sorry Thailand is not good now. Tourism not good now.”

He added, “But no need to be scared. Bangkok very safe, always very safe.”

The city and its people remain spirited amidst Martial Law. Our three days stay was no different from my last visit in 2012—fewer tourists indeed, but we were not inconvenienced and no untoward incident occurred. The Thais observed normalcy and life seemed to go on.

And while we must not take these advisories lightly, I am certain that a traveler oblivious to the news will not notice the difference between pre-Martial Law Bangkok and the Bangkok of today. — VC/KG, GMA News