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They say the island of Kyushu, in the southwest portion of Japan, is the most beautiful in that country. While Kyoto's charm lies is in its old culture and Tokyo's popularity is based on its modern vibe, Kyushu's appeal is rooted in nature—majestic volcanoes, hot springs, and scenic islands.
We planned a trip to Kyushu via a cruise on the Diamond Princess a year ago. Leaving Yokohama one day in August this year, we sailed to the third largest island in Japan for a nine-day trip.
But first, a stop at Mt. Fuji.
Highest mountain
Our tour guide said the last time Mt. Fuji erupted was in the 1700s.
We were excited to go up Mt. Fuji—even by bus, partly—since the volcano is famous for its snow-capped cone, immortalized in calendars and postcards.
Since it was the height of summer, there was no snow atop Mt. Fuji, the highest mountain in Japan at 3,776 meters. This we could see from our stopover a few kilometers away. Yet it was still a sight to behold. No wonder it was included in the World Heritage List in 2013 as a Cultural Site.
There are at least four climbing routes on the way to the top. Our bus stopped at the 2400-meter elevation mark at the 5th Station of the Fujinomiya Trail. A viewing deck and a gift shop are located here, and volunteers of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park were around to ask donations for the upkeep of the observation point.
On the way back to the Shimizu Hinode Wharf, we dropped by the Shizuoka Sengen Shrine—the collective name for three Shinto shrines in the prefecture. The architecture of the structures shows the great skill of Japanese artisans in using lacquer and wood. Some of these are classified by the government as Important Cultural Properties.
We had a nice time at the Tokaido Hiroshige Museum of Art, named after Edo Ukiyo-e Artist, Utagawa Hiroshige. Aside from viewing his woodblock prints of old Japan, we got to do our own artworks at the lobby—Mt. Fuji woodblock prints!
On the way to Kyushu the next day, we also stopped at the port of Kumano in Mie Prefecture. Our ship joined three other cruise ships in dropping the anchor before 7 p.m. to view the Kumano Fireworks Festival (Kumano Hanabi Taikai) on August 17.
Held on a beach in Kumano, the festival is famous in Japan with many spectators dressing up in the traditional yukata, the summer kimono. We likewise donned the same, and joined the passengers on the deck viewing the spectacular display.
TIP: Some of the sweet snacks available at the gift shop at the Fujinomiya Trail 5th Station on Mt. Fuji cannot be found elsewhere, and thus make good gifts. Bottled water, however, is about three times the price in Tokyo.
Scenic cruising then on to ‘hell’
The following day, our ship traversed the Japan Inland Sea, passing through Akashi Strait, Bisan-Seto, and Kurushima. The waters were calm and it was a treat to view islets, lighthouses, temples, bridges, and fishing villages from the deck. It was like going to the Hundred Islands.
We docked in the tourist town of Beppu in Kyushu the next day. A note on our excursion ticket said we should bring a towel if we want to try the foot bath at one of the hot springs.
It turned out that Beppu's hot springs are by no means the usual. At Oniishi Bozu Jigoku, grey bubbles could be seen from the boiling mud pools as the temperature could really reach boiling point. A small pool nearby provided visitors a chance to sample the temperature of the hot springs via a foot bath. It was so hot that it took courage to dip one's whole foot in it.
Nearby is the Chino-Ike-jigoKu (Blood Pond Hell)—so-called because the waters are red due to the mineral content of the area. The air smells of sulfur, adding to the “hell” connotation.
Other hot springs in the area boast of other colors: white to copper to sapphire, depending on the mineral content of the area. Collectively, the nine hot springs are called “Hells of Beppu.”
A visit to the Usa Jingu Shrine, an acknowledged Japanese National Treasure, was a must. The Shinto shrine, dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war, was founded in the Nara Period around AD 708 to 714.
TIP: Sample the steamed foods being sold outside the hot springs. Beppu is also known for hell-steaming, a unique method wherein food is cooked with steam from the hot springs. Almost all the houses we passed by had long chimneys with smoke rising on top as it was nearing the lunch hour.
Kagoshima's volcano
The following day, a ferry took us from the Marine Port of Kagoshima to Sakurajima, an active volcano rising 1,117 meters high. From any point in Kagoshima, the volcano could be seen. Our guide said the whole body of water surrounding Sakurajima is a caldera formed during one of the major eruptions.
The observation deck nearest Mt. Sakurajima give one breathtaking views of the calm waters surrounding it. It is easy to go up the lookout point since the trail gently—not steeply—goes around massive lava rocks.
Back on the mainland, we went to Sengan-En Gardens, home of the Shimadzu Clan during the Edo period. With ponds, streams, breathtaking views, and well-maintained gardens, the place is perfect for some quiet time and picture-taking.
The old residence of the feudal lord built in 1658 still stands here, and with “samurai” reenacting life in the olden times, one leaves the place with a renewed appreciation for Japanese history and culture.
TIP: Buy baked sweet potato at one of the gift shops inside Sengan-En Gardens. Kagoshima is known for its sweet potato which is really delicious. Make space too for the Kagoshima Kurobuta Pork and the Kagoshima Kuroishi Beef.
From Kagoshima, we sailed for Busan in South Korea, but then that is for another story. — BM, GMA News
