From house cleaner to restaurateur: Filipino’s Paris dream serves home-style kare-kare and okoy on Boulevard du Montparnasse 

PARIS — One drizzling and chilly night in Paris, while walking along the trendy Boulevard du Montparnasse, I caught a familiar, appetizing scent — that unmistakable aroma of Filipino food. I followed it like a homesick compass until one quick turn brought me to Place de Manille, a cozy, family-run Filipino restaurant in the heart of Paris serving traditional Filipino dishes.

The moment I stepped inside, I was greeted with that unmistakably Filipino warmth: “Kamusta kabayan?” (How are you, fellow Filipino?)

The interior instantly transported me back home like a traditional fiesta set against the romantic backdrop of Paris. After more than a week in the city, any full-blooded Pinoy would start craving ulam at kanin (viand and rice). So imagine my joy seeing a menu that read: adobo, kare-kare, sisig, and more.

The owner, 60-year-old Bong Manganti, recommended their bestsellers: okoy, lechon belly, and the ever-classic kare-kare. I could’ve gone for a cold bottle of Filipino beer to match the cravings, but I decided on a glass of red wine — a small homage to our French host country.

When the food arrived, it was sizzling hot, and to my hungry eyes, simply beautiful. The flavors did not disappoint; there was no pretension, just honest, home-style goodness. 

The kare-kare came rich and thick with the perfect bagoong (shrimp paste). The lechon belly was tender yet crisp. But the okoy, the humble Filipino shrimp fritter, stole the show for me. It was the crispiest I’ve ever tasted, subtly flavored, not overwhelming, with just the right umami, especially when dipped in suka (vinegar).

Of course, there was rice, how could I not? With red wine on the side, it turned into the perfect Parisian-Pinoy fusion dinner, my last meal before heading back to Manila the next day.

The family-run Place de Manille in Paris is not just a story of Filipino cuisine, but its owner's story of grit and perseverance. (Photo by JP Soriano, GMA Integrated News)

After the hapunan (dinner), I chatted with Bong, our proud kababayan (fellow Filipino). 

He smiled as he called the restaurant a “dream come true.” He built Place de Manille using the savings he earned from years of service working as a cook for VIPs and restaurants in Paris.

But Bong’s dream didn’t happen overnight. When he first moved to Paris more than a decade ago after years of working in the Middle East as a chef, he started from scratch.

“Linis bahay ako, house cleaner. Tapos hanggang nagustuhan ako ng mga amo ko, sinabi ko, cook ako. Pinagluto ako, then nagustuhan nila ako.”

(“I worked as a house cleaner. My employers liked me, so I told them I was a cook. They let me cook, and they liked it.”)

With perseverance and passion, Bong worked his way up, eventually cooking for some of the most affluent families and celebrities in France. That exposure helped him understand the French palate and refine how Filipino flavors could appeal to an international audience.

When Place de Manille opened earlier this year, it first became a go-to spot for homesick Filipinos in Paris, a place to eat, laugh, and listen to live music from fellow Filipino artists. But soon, Filipino customers began bringing their French colleagues and friends, who then brought their own. Some had even visited the Philippines before and said they missed the taste of adobo or sinigang, grateful to find an authentic Filipino restaurant in the heart of Paris.

“Marami. Galing Palawan, galing ano... Pupunta dito. Ano sila... Na-miss daw nila yung Pinoy food eh. Na-miss nila, ganyan.”

(“Many come here, some from Palawan. They tell me they missed Filipino food, they really missed it.”)

Place de Manille is a true family affair; Bong’s wife, daughter, and son-in-law help run the place, while his son serves as the main chef, blending Bong’s original recipes with his own creative twists.

Bong’s dream is to see Filipino cuisine recognized alongside other Asian staples in France, like Chinese, Thai, Japanese, and Vietnamese food, as a global comfort cuisine. He believes Filipino food tells a story of family, friendship, and resilience.

“So talagang yun ang isa sa ano namin, na mapakilala namin sa friends yung mga pagkain natin.” (“That’s really one of our goals, to introduce our food to our friends.”)

As we wrapped up the evening, Bong smiled again and said, “Balik ka ulit sa amin, kababayan.” (“Come back again soon, kababayan.”) 

And I surely will. Because on that rainy Paris night, in one little corner of the city, a bowl of kare-kare and a plate of okoy reminded me that home can be found wherever there’s a Filipino kitchen. — JMA/KG, GMA Integrated News